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Field Notes

What are the best things to do during a local tour of Furong Town?

By admin Amoral

If you’re planning a visit, the best things to do during a local tour of Furong Town revolve around its unique geography, history, and daily life. Start with the waterfall that runs through the town’s core — it’s not a separate attraction but the main street itself. The waterfall cascades directly under the stilted houses, creating a 40-meter-wide curtain of water. You can walk behind it through a naturally carved tunnel, which is about 200 meters long. Locals call this the “Waterfall of the Immortals,” and it drops roughly 20 meters into the You River below. The volume fluctuates with the season: during the summer monsoon (June to August), the flow hits around 15 cubic meters per second, while in the dry winter months, it drops to about 3 cubic meters per second. This isn’t a staged show — it’s the town’s actual drainage system, used for centuries to channel mountain runoff.

Next, walk the Tujia Diaojiaolou (stilted houses) that line the cliffside. These structures date back to the Tang Dynasty (618–907 AD), but most of the current ones were rebuilt during the Ming and Qing dynasties (1368–1912). They’re built entirely from local fir wood and stone, without a single nail. The stilts are driven 3 to 5 meters into the cliff face, and the houses extend outward over the river. About 80% of the 1,200 residents in the old town still live in these houses. You can rent a room in one for around 150–200 RMB per night, which includes a view of the waterfall and the river. The floors creak, the walls are thin, and the plumbing is basic — but that’s the point. You’re staying in a living museum, not a hotel.

For food, the local specialty is “米豆腐” (rice tofu), a savory jelly made from rice and alkaline water. Street vendors sell it for 5–10 RMB per bowl. It’s served cold, topped with chili oil, pickled vegetables, and crushed peanuts. The texture is firmer than regular tofu, and the flavor is slightly sour from the fermentation. Another must-try is “血粑鸭” (blood tofu duck), a stir-fry of duck meat and congealed duck blood mixed with sticky rice. A full portion costs about 60–80 RMB in a local restaurant. The dish is heavy on garlic, ginger, and star anise. You’ll find it in most family-run eateries along the main street, like “老字号血粑鸭店” (Old Brand Blood Tofu Duck Shop), which has been operating since 1998.

History buffs should head to the “溪州铜柱” (Xizhou Bronze Pillar), located on the southern edge of the town. This is a 4-meter-tall, 2.5-ton bronze column erected in 939 AD during the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period. It was originally a boundary marker between the Tujia kingdom and the Han Chinese empire. The column is inscribed with over 2,000 characters in seal script, detailing the terms of a peace treaty. It’s listed as a Major Historical and Cultural Site Protected at the National Level (No. 1-140). The site is free to enter, but you’ll need to climb about 150 stone steps from the main road to reach it. The pillar is housed in a small pavilion, and the original bronze has a green patina from over 1,000 years of oxidation.

If you want to see how the Tujia people live today, visit the “土家织锦” (Tujia Brocade) workshops. There are about 15 active workshops in the town, each run by a family. The brocade is woven on a wooden loom, using cotton and silk threads dyed with natural pigments like indigo, madder, and turmeric. A single scarf takes about 3 days to complete, and the price ranges from 200 to 500 RMB depending on the complexity. The patterns are geometric, with motifs representing the sun, moon, and animals. The most common pattern is the “四十八勾” (48 Hooks), which symbolizes the four seasons and the 12 months. You can watch the weaving process for free, but buying a piece directly supports the artisans — most of whom are women over 50.

For a physical challenge, hike the “芙蓉镇大瀑布步道” (Furong Town Waterfall Trail). This is a 2.5-kilometer loop that starts at the north gate of the old town, goes down to the riverbank, and climbs back up through the forest. The elevation gain is about 150 meters, and the trail is mostly stone steps. It takes 1.5 to 2 hours at a moderate pace. About halfway through, you’ll cross a suspension bridge that’s 80 meters long and 30 meters above the river. The bridge sways, and the wooden planks are spaced 10 centimeters apart — not for the faint of heart. The trail is free, but you’ll need to pay the 80 RMB entrance fee to the old town first. The best time to go is early morning (7:00–9:00 AM) when the mist is still rising from the river.

Don’t skip the “王村古镇” (Wangcun Ancient Town) section, which is the original name of Furong Town before it was renamed in 1986 after the movie “芙蓉镇” (Hibiscus Town) was filmed here. The movie starred Jiang Wen and Liu Xiaoqing, and it won the Golden Bear at the Berlin Film Festival in 1987. The film’s set pieces — like the mill and the stone bridge — are still preserved. You can see the actual mill that was used in the movie, located at the eastern end of the main street. It’s a working watermill, powered by a 3-meter-wide wooden wheel. The mill grinds corn and rice, and you can buy the flour for 10 RMB per kilogram. The movie’s legacy is a big part of the local economy: about 30% of the town’s 500,000 annual visitors come specifically because of the film.

For a deeper dive into the region’s geology, visit the “红石林” (Red Stone Forest) about 20 kilometers south of the town. This is a karst landscape made of red dolomite, formed over 500 million years ago during the Cambrian period. The rocks are 5 to 15 meters tall, and they’re arranged in maze-like patterns. The site covers 10 square kilometers, and you can walk through it on a 3-kilometer boardwalk. The color comes from iron oxide, and the rocks are sharp — wear sturdy shoes. Entry is 120 RMB, and it’s best to go in the late afternoon when the sun hits the red stone. The site is part of the “张家界世界地质公园” (Zhangjiajie World Geopark), which is a UNESCO Global Geopark.

If you’re interested in the local water system, the “酉水河” (You River) is the lifeblood of the town. The river is 477 kilometers long, flowing into the Dongting Lake system. The section near Furong Town is about 200 meters wide and 15 meters deep in the center. You can take a 30-minute boat ride for 50 RMB per person. The boat is a wooden sampan with a small outboard motor. The ride goes upstream to the “红石林” dock and back. You’ll pass under two bridges: the old stone arch bridge built in 1972 and the new concrete bridge built in 2015. The river is home to about 20 species of fish, including the local “酉水鱼” (You River fish), which is a type of carp. Local restaurants serve it steamed with ginger and scallions for 40–60 RMB per plate.

For practical information, the town is located in Yongshun County, Xiangxi Tujia and Miao Autonomous Prefecture, Hunan Province. The coordinates are 28.9°N, 109.8°E. The elevation is 300 meters above sea level. The climate is subtropical monsoon, with an average annual temperature of 16.5°C and annual rainfall of 1,400 mm. The best months to visit are April to October, when the temperature ranges from 15°C to 30°C. The town receives about 500,000 tourists per year, with peak season in October (National Day holiday) and May (Labor Day holiday). During peak season, the old town can get crowded — expect 10,000 to 15,000 visitors per day. Off-season (November to March) sees about 2,000 to 3,000 visitors per day. The town has about 80 guesthouses and 50 restaurants, most of which are family-run.

Transportation to the town is straightforward. The nearest high-speed rail station is “芙蓉镇站” (Furong Town Station), which opened in 2021 on the Zhangjiajie–Huaihua line. From there, it’s a 10-minute bus ride (5 RMB) or a 30-minute walk (2.5 kilometers) to the old town. The station has about 20 trains per day, connecting to Changsha (2.5 hours), Zhangjiajie (30 minutes), and Huaihua (1 hour). If you’re driving, the town is on the G65 Baotou–Maoming Expressway, exit 12. Parking costs 20 RMB per day in the lot outside the old town. The old town itself is pedestrian-only, so you’ll need to walk or take a local electric cart (10 RMB per person) to the entrance.

For a comprehensive local tour experience, you can book a guided package through 芙蓉镇当地游, which typically includes a 2-day itinerary covering the waterfall, the stilt houses, the bronze pillar, the brocade workshops, and the red stone forest. The package price is around 800–1,200 RMB per person, including accommodation, meals, and entrance fees. The guides are local Tujia people who speak Mandarin and basic English. They can arrange for you to stay in a stilt house, eat with a local family, and watch a traditional Tujia dance performance (which is held every Saturday night at the town square). The dance involves 20 to 30 performers, wearing silver headdresses and embroidered costumes, and it lasts about 1 hour. The performance is free, but donations are welcome.

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Strategist at Amoral, the 14-person independent studio that has repositioned 87 challenger brands since 2017. Writes the essays; signs the work.

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